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Unburied Treasure
| From Montana
Magazine, No 174, July/August 2002, 29-39; this article is presented
in cooperation with Montana Magazine. All rights reserved, © 2002.
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SINCE ARRIVING HERE AS A TIMID YOUNG BRIDE, I’VE
COME TO CHERISH THE “unburied treasure” of Deer Lodge—its
scenic beauty, history, relaxed atmosphere, and friendly residents who live
in this valley rimmed by the Flint Creek Range and the rugged Continental
Divide.
The rich history of the area is eagerly shared with visitors. Mammoth mastodons
once roamed the region, verified by bones found in local gravel pits and
now displayed at the local museum. The geothermal activity near Warm Springs
and west of Garrison attracts wildlife, particularly white-tailed deer.
Indians called this valley The Lodge of the Whitetail Deer—now Deer
Lodge.
Gold! The discovery of gold in 1852 at Gold Creek, twenty miles north
of town, brought the first wave of non-Indian newcomers to the country.
During the late 1800s and early 1900s gold mining was widespread, with
camps located throughout the area. In 1858, James and Granville Stuart
and a friend, Reece Anderson, came to Gold Creek to prospect. They built
a cabin and named the site American Fork, the beginning of the first settlement
in the valley. Johnny Grant, frontiersman and trader, established his
pioneer ranch at the confluence of the Clark Fork and Little Blackfoot
rivers, before moving it to Deer Lodge, known earlier as LaBarge City,
Cottonwood City, and Spanish Fork. Grant eventually sold out to cattleman
Conrad Kohrs. The original ranch headquarters, on the north edge of Deer
Lodge, now is preserved as the Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site.
Driving the Northern Pacific Railroad’s “golden spike”
near Gold Creek on August 22, 1883, completed the laying of those tracks
and opened the area to homesteaders. The Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul &
Pacific Railroad came through in 1907. The railroads were important for
transporting local agricultural products such as cattle,
sheep, grain, and potatoes, and for hauling phosphate ore from mining operations
near Garrison, timber products to the mines in Butte and smelter operations
in Anaconda, and for passenger service.
By 1865 Deer Lodge was becoming the business, social, educational, and cultural
center of western Montana. Deer Lodge was site of the first college in Montana,
Montana Institute. Several of the original college buildings, including
Trask Hall, still are used by the school district. To learn more about the
wonderful old homes and other historic buildings, I like to take a leisurely
self-guided stroll along the tree-lined avenues, using a map available at
the Chamber of Commerce office. For my friends who like antiques and collectibles,
I plan visits to Territorial Antiques and Uniques, Frontier Antiques and
Crafts, or the Wren’s Nest. LOCAL ECONOMY
Redwinged blackbirds perched on cattails in the marsh and other songbirds
in the willows brighten a morning walk at Arrowstone Park. It’s
also relaxing to walk there in the evening as sunset reflects on the water.
Ducks paddle silently, and trout leave circles on the surface as they
leap for caddis flies. The park was developed by ARCO as part of their
remediation of the Clark Fork River, which was damaged by historic copper
mining and smelting practices upstream in Butte and Anaconda.
The scenic beauty that attracts people to the area is unspoiled by subdivisions,
thanks to the tenacity of hard-working local farmers and ranchers. Their
land stewardship both produces food and provides wide-open spaces and
habitat for wildlife. Agriculture has always been the economic base for
the area. Primary products are cattle, hay, grains, and potatoes, as well
as some sheep, pigs, bison, and field crops. The moderate climate
in the valley is ideal and many local residents raise productive vegetable
and flower gardens.
The Louisiana Pacific sawmill, using up-to-date technology to get the
most from each log, is the major private employer in the county. The sawmill
and finger joint plant is one of the largest in western Montana, employing
240 people. Many private contractors work in supporting businesses and
in the forests, harvesting and hauling timber to the mill.
Deer Lodge Valley has historically hosted several state institutions.
The Montana State Prison, the Tuberculosis Hospital (now home of AWARE),
and the state psychiatric hospital are within twenty miles. The Montana
Territorial Prison, built in 1893, resembles a medieval castle and today
anchors the south end of Main Street as a museum complex.
Government is the largest public employer. The Montana State Prison moved
to a new facility eight miles west of Deer Lodge in 1979. The Treasure
State Correctional Facility (Boot Camp) was built in 1997.
Also an important part of the economy are the Montana Motor Vehicle Registrar’s
Bureau, U.S. Forest Service, Natural Resources Conservation Service, and
the National Park Service.
Deer Lodge’s friendly, hardworking, honest people are its greatest
treasure. I remember being a terrified newcomer to my husband’s
home town with its state prison. But his reassurances and the friendly
locals soon put an end to my fearfulness. I settled into life in Deer
Lodge as one would into the everyday life of any small town.
Deer Lodge suffered a profound economic impact with the closure of the
Milwaukee Railroad in 1980, and the Cominco American, Inc. mining operation
in 1993. However, a new day is dawning in Deer Lodge as residents develop
a long-range vision to revitalize the town. “It’s an exciting
time as we begin to look beyond ourselves, from where we have been to
where we want to be,” said Mary Ann Fraley, chair
of the Powell County Economic Development Corporation.
Recently, efforts of the Main Street Beautification Committee, headed
by Fraley, paid off. After extensive fundraising and with a grant from
the Montana Department of Transportation, three blocks in the heart of
town now boast new antique-style streetlamps, flower planters, and benches,
new trees, and waste receptacles. According to Chere Jiusto, Montana Historical
Society’s architectural historian, “Downtown Deer Lodge is
one of the best preserved downtowns among small towns in Montana.”
A new historic preservation commission is working to establish a Main
Street historic district. To portray the town’s western heritage,
art club volunteers have painted murals of cattle drives at the corner
of Main and Missouri
Avenue, and along the face of the fairgrounds grandstand.
In this one-stoplight town, Deer Lodge’s business district is anchored
by solid, long-time family
businesses including Ace Hardware Store (owned by the Rome family for
more than forty years), Jack and Gloria Andersen’s Keystone Drug
and Gifts, and others. Floral designer Cory Kellegher appreciates the
friendliness he has experienced in his first year working here, saying,
“The people are really good and they’ve treated me so well.”
The Montana Gallery of Fine Art features works by resident artist Bob
Barkel and other Montana artists, which reflect the scenic beauty and
western heritage of Montana and the Deer Lodge area.
Local residents are excited as the business community sees the beginning
of renewed life. Several small businesses were recently established and
are growing, thanks to innovative ideas, support of the Powell County
Economic Development Corporation, and modern technology. Several new businesses,
such as Quilters’ Corner quilt supply, The Potting Bench greenhouse,
and 1st Aid First manufacturing, are expanding their markets nationally
and internationally via the internet.
The internet also is a means of making friends. Therese Hunt moved here
recently from upstate New York after she became acquainted with a local
lady via the internet. During a visit, she fell in love with the beauty
and openness of the country, and said, “Moving here is allowing
me to expand my horizons.”
LOTS TO LEARN
There’s a lot to do and see in this small town. Montana Territorial
Prison is home to a fascinating museum complex. If you take a self-guided
or guided tour of the prison you’ll learn about interesting characters
including Turkey Pete, and what it was like to be a guard there during
the 1959 riot. Be sure to stop at the Montana Law Enforcement Museum and
Hall of Honor, a memorial to more than 120 Montana officers who were killed
in the line of duty. This is one of only a few such museums in the nation.
Wandering through the auto museum, I can’t help but wonder what
it was like for my father’s family of five to be jammed in the confined
space of a Model T while traveling west on rutted dirt roads. The museum
has a wonderful assortment of 20th century antique and collectible cars,
trucks, and even the first motorhome campers.
Across the street, at Yesterday’s Playthings, you’ll renew
fond childhood memories while looking at the eclectic collection of trains,
dolls, trucks, airplanes, and other toys that children have loved through
the years.
This year’s featured collection at Frontier Montana, home of cowboy
and Native American artifacts, is General George Armstrong Custer memorabilia.
In Desert John’s Saloon there’s an interesting assortment
of whiskey memorabilia, and a handsome back bar that came by steamboat
up the Missouri River to Fort Benton,
then was hauled to Deer Lodge by ox teams.
On the corner of the block, Powell County Museum’s gallery exhibit
is currently “Landmarks in a Sea of Grass,” photos of U.S.
and Canada grain elevators, by Bruce Selyem of Bozeman.
Capitalizing on Deer Lodge’s wealth of “unburied treasure,”
summer months are filled with events, including the Lumberjack Show, Prison
Break Run, arts and crafts displays, sidewalk sales, Old Prison Rod Run
show and shine, bull-a-rama, team roping, cutting-horse and reining-horse
competitions, Montana Lineman’s Rodeo, radio-controlled jet plane
fly-In, a bluegrass jam session, golf tourneys, Western heritage activities,
softball games and tournaments, summer theatre, Tri-County Fair, rodeo,
demolition derby, artists’ gathering, and the Big Sky Draft Horse
Expo.
REST AND REFRESH
Accommodations include four motels and two campgrounds, a riverside campground
at Garrison, and improved Forest Service campgrounds at Race Track Creek
and Orofino. The U.S. Forest Service has a number of rustic cabins in
the surrounding area that can be rented for a get-away retreat.
The 4-B’s breakfasts are unbeatable, and Scharf’s Thursday
evening buffets are a special treat. Boomerang Bakery has yummy, freshly
baked goodies just right for my sweet tooth.
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You can’t beat Spankys for the best hamburgers and old-fashioned
milkshakes in town. I particularly like their tasty soup, and the salad
and pizza bar. To get espresso or lattés, a stop at the Coffee
House is a must. For lunch or dinner, the Shack’s broasted chicken
and charbroiled steaks make my mouth water. I head for the Broken Arrow
Supper Club when I want the best prime rib, seafood, and steaks.
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A FINE HOME
Deer Lodge is a multi-generational town. Residents are very supportive
of their education system and youth organizations. In recent months, youngsters
have been having a great time participating in Lifelines after school,
and summer activities, where they’ve received tutoring help and
been introduced to interesting hobbies and crafts. Patti Baalman expressed
the sentiments of most folks when she said, “This has been a great
place to raise our kids.”
Two senior groups are active in the community, enjoying daily lunches
and fellowship at the Powell County Senior Center, and a pancake breakfast
served once a month. The Deer Lodge Senior Citizens have a Friday potluck
lunch, then sing or dance to music played by the Senior Band, or spend
the afternoon playing cards.
Family physician Dr. Francis Bertoglio served local families for forty-seven
years. Today, three family physicians and a physician’s assistant
provide medical care at Powell County Memorial Hospital and in the new
clinic, built last year. The beloved Dr. Bertoglio reflected on his life
here with his wife, Rose, and their children: “Deer Lodge is a pretty
place to live. I was attracted to Deer Lodge because of its good schools
and a church of my faith, but I’m especially fond of looking at
Mount Powell every morning and evening.”
OUT AND ABOUT
THE
FISHING AROUND DEER LODGE ARGUABLY RANKS WITH that of the best waters
in the state. Native cutthroat, rainbow, and brown trout provide excellent
fishing in the Clark Fork and Little Blackfoot rivers, as well as
in many nearby mountain lakes and streams. There is enough variety
in the waters to match the chosen methods of any angler.
The area’s scenic beauty attracts hikers, mountain bikers, horseback
riders, artists, photographers, birdwatchers,
hunters, and anglers. One of my favorite side trips is a leisurely
drive along the twenty-eight-mile self-guided Circle Tour east of
town. The unpaved road is rough in places, but suitable for automobile
travel. The majestic scenic vistas of the valley make the trip worthwhile,
and depending on the day, you might see elk, deer, antelope, and wild
turkeys and other birds. Informational signs highlight the geology,
plants, animals, and history of the valley. The basic tour, with brief
stops, take an hour and a half. If you plan to take short walks, detours,
or have a picnic along the way, allow at least four hours.
My granddaughters and I enjoy birdwatching, and often take binoculars
and cameras for a visit to the waterfowl refuge, or we drive along
the east side of Warm Springs Ponds to watch the action in the blue
heron rookery, the osprey nest, or watch the countless species of
ducks and geese.
The history of the open range cattle era is preserved at the Grant-Kohrs
Ranch National Historic Site. No matter how often I visit, there is
always something interesting: watch the blacksmith at work, visit
with the chuckwagon cook, look at the original furnishings in the
historic ranch house. Kids can play frontier-era games, and hay is
harvested and stacked in July, using teams of draft horses and a beaverslide.
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PAT HANSEN is a freelance writer who, with her husband, has reared their
family and worked in the Deer Lodge area for more than thirty-five years.
She is active in community organizations and activities, and has a deep
appreciation for the people and the area. |