The waters of eastern Montana are often confounding and mystifying to anglers from other states as well as to native Montanans raised near the crystal clear, cold streams west of the Continental Divide. No stream can lay claim to being at once perplexing and rewarding in quite the same way as the Missouri River once it reaches the Fort Peck Dam southeast of Glasgow and spreads out to become the largest body of water in Montana: Fort Peck Reservoir. Created by the construction of Fort Peck Dam in 1940, the reservoir extends upstream over 135 miles and has a surface area of over 250,000 acres. Big Dry Arm, near the dam, extends the reservoir's waters another 40 miles south up Big Dry Creek.
By the time the Missouri River winds its way past Great Falls and heads through the loose shale country of Fort Benton, it has picked up enough silt and soil to look unfit for fish or fowl. But appearances are deceiving, and even though it has slowed down to a crawl by the time it passes under the Fred Robinson Bridge, just west of the defined limit of Fort Peck Reservoir, the Missouri is less like the staid and stolid warm-water fisheries of its midwest cousins than it appears. Beneath the surface of Fort Peck thrives one of the most diverse and challenging fisheries in the northern Great Plains. Northern pike, walleye, lake trout, sauger, channel catfish, paddlefish, burbot, yellow perch, black crappie, white crappie, a few smallmouth bass, and, yes, even an occasional rainbow trout all live here, along with a host of nongame fish such as carp and a variety of suckers.
FWP has also started stocking chinook salmon here, and in 1991 Fort Peck produced the state record-breaker at 31.13 pounds. The lake is famous for producing recent state records including a 4.88-pound coho salmon caught in 1973 by Irven Stohl; a 25.89-pound channel catfish, a tie caught in 1984 by Gordon Wentworth and again in 1988 by Tom Hilderman; a 20.44-pound freshwater drum caught by Richard C. Lee in 1987; a 8.81-pound sauger caught in 1994 by Gene Moore; a 15.66-pound saugeye (walleye and sauger hybrid) caught in 1995 by Myron Kibler; and most importantly, a 16.29 pound walleye caught in 1995 by Randy Townsend. You have a better chance of catching a state record fish in Fort Peck Reservior than any other place in Montana.
Surface area of this northern prairie reservoir is approximately 5,700 acres. Its depth averages around 10 to 20 feet, reaching about 30 feet at the south end near the dam. Because this reservoir is heavily used for irrigation, it suffers severe fluctuations in water level during the summer and has been almost completely drawn down at times. Besides irrigation draw-down, future problems for fish include the possibility of hydro-power development at the dam.
Local anglers who hang out at Masters Sports in Havre report that the reservoir yields good early summer and spring fishing for northern pike, walleye, and perch. A good day's catch, according to these folks, is a freezer full of 1.5-pound to 2.5-pound northerns or a limit of 1.5-pound walleye. In the past FWP has planted smallmouth bass, rainbow trout, and perch, and northern pike were apparently planted illegally. So far, very few trout and bass have turned up in anglers' creels; no one has pulled a trout from these waters since 1974. But be prepared for them just in case they are still in there.
Trolling is the preferred method of fishing in spring and summer. Most anglers use spinners, spoons, or lures such as Rapala. Some anglers prefer bottom bouncers with a nightcrawler attached. Trolling depth should be set between 8 and 20 feet. Of course, if you want to try for bass, any of the standard bass plugs or flies can be used.
Winter ice-fishing for northerns and walleye, using tip-ups baited with grubs or worms, is good to excellent. Local anglers report catches of 19- to 24-inch northerns and 15- to 20-inch walleye. If you're trying for perch, any fleshy bait, or even corn, should yield a nice catch. This reservoir is located on the windy Hi-Line, so bring a good windproof parka along and a bucket of charcoal to help keep you warm.
First-time anglers often do well by fishing the reservoir from the dam area near the town of Fort Peck. Lake trout, chinook salmon, northern pike, and walleye all frequent this area and provide plenty of excitement. Many anglers begin fishing at the dam and, as they get more familiar with the water and fish, quickly spread out to other areas on the reservoir.
The face of Fort Peck Dam is a very good place to find lake trout. FWP says anglers looking for lake trout concentrate their efforts in May and June, although fall fishing (October through November) is also good. During the warm summer months, lake trout tend to head deep to cooler water, so anglers should shift their depths accordingly. Some anglers spincast with lures from shore, but trolling brings the greatest success. In the spring and fall, trolling between 15 and 20 feet of depth is adequate, but during the warm summer months it's best to set your line much deeper, 80 to 100 feet, using a down-rigger. Large spoons and lures such as a red and white or pearl-coated Daredevle are very popular. Fast retrieves and fairly fast trolling seem to attract the most fish.
Lake trout populations show a slight upward trend, so they will continue to be a popular sport fish in the coming years. These fish average about 8 pounds, but there are some lunkers over 20 pounds in Fort Peck Reservoir. Lake trout and some other species have increased in average size in recent years due to the introduction of cisco and shiners as a food source.
Northern pike are also popular sport fish in Fort Peck Reservoir. Most northern pike fishing is done by trolling at fairly shallow depths-8 to 10 feet-starting near the dam and working around the reservoir. Some summer anglers report success from trolling at greater depths, down to 20 feet. Large spoons and flatfish are the most popular lures for trolling, and some anglers use minnows both for trolling and still fishing. The bays of some of the tributary streams around the reservoir provide excellent northern pike holes, good for either concentrated trolling or still-fishing.
Bear Creek Bay, southeast of the dam, is the first large bay and should provide plenty of fishing challenge. Duck Creek Bay, northwest of the dam, is slightly smaller in size but has numerous shoreline fingers for anglers to work. Gilbert Creek Bay, further west on the south side, is another good place to try. The final south side primary northern pike fishing area is the bay at Hells Creek. Hells Creek is also a state recreation area, with public camping, day use areas, toilets, drinking water, boat ramp, and swimming facilities. You can reach the recreation area either by boat or by road. To get there by road, follow the country road north out of Jordan for 24 miles. The bay at Timber Creek is the final north side primary northern pike fishing area. Although most anglers reach these areas by boat from the reservoir, there are roads through the CMR Refuge that will take you to the bays. Be sure to stop somewhere first and pick up a good local map of the area. The Bureau of Land Management publishes several maps that cover the entire area.
Sauger and walleye are different species that look very much alike, behave in much the same manner, and are fished in the same way. Many anglers can't tell the two species apart. Walleye, however, tend to be a bit larger and range up to 9 pounds in Fort Peck. These fish will take a variety of lures and bait with medium to large spoons, preferably plugs and minnows. Walleye and sauger are generally taken by trolling; still-fishing; and set-line, or bank-fishing. Trollers should go deeper for these than for northerns, at least 20 to 30 feet deep. In addition, trolling speed should be cut to a slow speed. Unlike northerns, which tend to stay towards the eastern end of the reservoir, walleye spread out all over the reservoir, some even migrating up into the Missouri River. Sauger stay more towards the western end and up into the river. Walleye move into shallower shoreline areas at night, and many anglers do well then.
Some dedicated local walleye anglers maintain that the Big Dry Arm is the best walleye hole in the West. Still others make the same claim for the area between Hells Creek State Recreation Area and west to Fourchette Bay. In either case, there are plenty of walleye for everyone at Fort Peck.
The smallmouth bass population has grown and now attracts a respectable amount of angling pressure.
For some anglers, paddlefish provide the only reason to come to Fort Peck. This abundant, unsightly fish does not bite a baited hook; it obtains its food by straining water through its gill rakers and extracting plankton (small, floating, animal and plant organisms) as it lolls along the bottom. But there is an important snagging fishery for paddlefish in the upper, or western, portion of the reservoir.
Paddlefish taken in Fort Peck and the adjoining Missouri River are larger than those taken anywhere else in the country. Females average 80 pounds and males just under 40. The state record, and possibly the North American sport record, is a 142.5-pounder that was taken in 1973 in the river above the lake. Most anglers use 30-pound monofilament line on casting equipment, with three to five treble hooks spaced back from a large sinker on the end. Eighty pounds of paddlefish is a lot of fish, so be sure to use a heavy duty reel and rod. Anglers snag both from boats and from the shoreline. From the end of March through June is the prime snagging season, while these huge fish move up the Missouri to spawn. The area from just west of the reservoir up to Fred Robinson Bridge on the Missouri River is the most popular snagging area. New regulations limit anglers to two paddlefish per season and each fish must be tagged.
The bottom of Fort Peck is also home to channel catfish, which spawn in the Musselshell and upper Missouri Rivers. Catfish up to 30 pounds have been pulled out of the reservoir. They are attracted by many natural and artificial kinds of bait; generally, the smellier the better. The primary fishing area for catfish is the mouth of the Musselshell and the entire UL Bend area. Some channel catfish anglers swear that the upper Big Dry Arm is just as good as the western portions of Fort Peck. Most fish are taken by set-line or bank-fishing, usually in June when the water warms up to 60 degrees.
Another fine sport fish in Fort Peck is yellow perch, prized for its delicious taste. Even though it's not a large fish, a pan full of perch fillets is pretty hard to beat. There is no limit on perch, and they will take worms and maggots. Perch are fished year-round, including through the ice in winter, and they are found throughout the reservoir. Most perch weigh less than 1 pound, and catch rates are down for this species so it may take some work to pull in enough fish for the table.
Burbot, or ling, at Fort Peck are mostly caught by ice-fishing in the winter. This is one of the reservoir's most popular fish, though no one bothers them much from spring through fall. Spearfishing from dark houses on the ice furnishes excellent wintertime recreation. Rock Creek Bay and the upper Big Dry Arm are the most popular burbot fishing areas. Winter ice-fishing is popular not only for burbot, but also for lake trout, northern pike, walleye, sauger, and perch. Besides spearfishing, many winter anglers use tip-ups and lightweight spinning gear. Maggots, worms, and corn are widely used for ice-fishing.
A good day's catch at Fort Peck should yield about three northern pike in the 1- to 30-pound range, your limit of 4-to 5-pound (up to 20-pound) lake trout, four to five channel catfish averaging about 5 pounds, five walleye or sauger averaging 1 to 2 pounds, and a number of perch. In the winter you should be able to haul a few perch and burbot through the ice. Ten-pound lake trout are becoming more common.
Clearly, Fort Peck is one of Montana's prime fishing locations. It is awe-inspiring in its size, rewarding in its catches, and truly unique in the diversity of species which thrive in its waters. The surrounding CMR Wildlife Refuge and the picturesque Missouri River Breaks provide a thrilling backdrop for a quality fishing experience.
Access
Surrounding this large expanse of water is the Charles M. Russell (CMR) National Wildlife Refuge, managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which provides over 1 million acres of public land for fishing, hiking, hunting, camping, bird-watching, and almost any other form of outdoor recreation imaginable (excluding golf courses and go-kart tracks). Public access to the reservoir's entire shoreline is restricted only be the dearth of roads, the geography, and the weather. If you notice storm clouds approaching from the west and are planning to travel out of the reservoir area on one of the dirt roads, be quick about it. Many an unhappy stranger to this country has gotten stuck on virtually level ground during a rainstorm. Local people refer to the mixture of shale soils and water as "gumbo." It has the capacity to grab hold of two- and four-wheel vehicles and render them immobile.
There are three state recreation areas nearby, all located on the south side of the reservoir: Rock Creek, Hell Creek, and James Kipp. There are also four federal public campgrounds: Devil Creek, Turkey Joe, and Nelson Creek on the south side of the reservoir; and The Pines on the north. New fishing access sites, each with a boat ramp, have been added at Duck Creek, Fourchette Bay, and Spillway Bay.
You can reach the CMR Refuge and Fort Peck Reservoir from the west by turning off of U.S. Highway 191 northwest of Lewistown at the Fred Robinson Bridge. Travelers from the south can reach it via Montana Highway 200 at Jordan and then north via the county road. The eastern edge of the reservoir is accessible from Montana Highway 24, which parallels the entire length of the Big Dry Arm and passes through the town of Fort Peck and over the dam. The north side of the reservoir is the least accessible from main roads. U.S. Highway 2 between Glasgow and Malta is the closest paved road. There are numerous county roads that take off south from US 2 and wind their way toward the reservoir.
